Spilling The Tea
Tea drinking in Ireland has a rich history dating back to the early 19th century. Though tea was introduced to the country in the 1700s, it wasn’t until the 1800s that it became a widespread and popular beverage. Initially a luxury item, tea was primarily enjoyed by the upper classes, but it gradually made its way into the homes of ordinary people. By the mid-19th century, tea had become a staple of Irish life, solidified as imports became more affordable. Irish tea is typically served strong, with milk and sugar, which suits the Irish taste for robust flavours. It soon became central to Irish social customs, often associated with hospitality. Offering a cup of tea became a sign of welcome and warmth, a tradition still strong in modern Ireland.
Today, Ireland is one of the highest per capita consumers of tea in the world. For many, tea is more than just a beverage it’s a part of daily life. Few rivalries encapsulate this deep-rooted cultural significance better than the competition between two of the country’s most iconic tea brands: Barry’s Tea and Lyons Tea. For decades, these two brands have vied for dominance in Irish households, creating a friendly yet fierce rivalry that divides tea lovers across the country. The rivalry between Barry’s Tea and Lyons Tea is not just a business competition but a reflection of Ireland’s regional and cultural preferences.
Barry’s Tea, founded in 1901 in Cork by James J. Barry, has always been closely associated with the southern part of Ireland. In contrast, Lyons Tea, founded in 1904, became a dominant brand in Dublin and the rest of the country. As Barry’s expanded beyond Munster and Lyons solidified its presence nationwide, a battle for the top spot in the Irish tea market began. One of the key distinctions between the two brands lies in their taste profiles, catering to different palates. Barry’s Tea is known for its strong, full-bodied flavour, using a higher proportion of teas from Rwanda and Kenya. It has long been favoured by those who prefer a rich, robust blend particularly in the southern regions of Ireland. Lyons Tea, by contrast, offers a smoother, slightly milder blend, enhanced by its pyramid tea bag design, which is said to improve brewing.
Lyons sources its teas primarily from East Africa and is more popular in the eastern part of Ireland, especially Dublin. This softer, yet hearty, cup of tea has made Lyons the preferred choice for many in the capital and surrounding areas. The rivalry between Barry’s and Lyons often plays out along regional lines. In Cork and much of the south, Barry’s Tea has a near-cult following, with locals proudly championing it as the superior Irish tea. Meanwhile, in Dublin and around the Pale, Lyons Tea has long held the edge. This Cork-versus-Dublin dynamic fuels the rivalry, making it not just about taste, but about regional pride and identity culchie versus jackeen.
So, which is better? Well, as we’re in Dublin, not far from the old Lyons Tea factory on Davitt Road (now used as a builders’ yard for the nearby new children’s hospital), we might say Lyons. But ask me that question outside Dublin, and you might get a different answer! Contrary to popular belief, Lyons Tea was not founded by the Lyons family in Dublin, nor was it a small, local business. Lyons Tea was actually established by the Salmon and Gluckstein families, German-Jewish immigrants who had built a thriving catering empire in London by the turn of the 20th century. In 1895, the Salmon and Glucksteins appointed Joseph Lyons as chairman of the company, making him the public face of their rapidly growing business. Under his leadership, the company began selling packaged tea in 1904 through its network of successful teashops in London.
The brand’s distinctive name, “J. Lyons,” became closely associated with high-quality tea products. The success of their in-store packaged tea led to wider distribution, with Lyons Tea being sold not only in the UK and Ireland but eventually across the globe. By 1921, the Lyons Tea factory in Greenford, London, had become the largest tea processing facility in Europe, solidifying the brand’s international presence. Far from being a modest Irish business, Lyons Tea was, in fact, a massive London-based manufacturing powerhouse. Their international tea empire grew steadily, and in 1962, the Irish division of the company, J. Lyons and Company (Ireland), was rebranded as Lyons Irish Holdings, marking a new chapter in its expansion into Ireland.
One of the key developments in Lyons Tea’s history was the opening of its factory on Davitt Road in Dublin. This factory became a central hub for tea production and packaging and was a major employer in the local area, providing jobs for hundreds of people. The factory was known not just for producing the beloved Lyons Tea but for its community impact, supporting local economies and families in the city. The Davitt Road factory handled blending, packaging, and distributing tea across the country, helping Lyons rapidly expand its production to meet growing demand in Ireland. This helped the brand grow into a household name. In the 1990s, Lyons Tea was acquired by the multinational conglomerate Unilever, further expanding its reach. However, the factory on Davitt Road continued to play a crucial role in production until its closure in the early 2000s, as manufacturing moved to the UK. Despite the closure, Lyons remains a beloved brand among Irish consumers and continues to dominate the tea market in Ireland.
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