Dublin’s Pilgrim Route: Modern and Medieval
Camino info office
The Camino Information Office at Saint James’ Church has been open since 2015 and it issues and stamps Camino Pilgrim Passports, which cost five euro. Many Irish people start their journey on the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route to the Shrine of Saint James in Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain from here. The passports which they receive here can then be stamped by various places such as cafes and hostels along the route to Santiago de Compostela.
More than 5000 Irish people take part in what is popularly known as ‘the Camino’ each year and the shortest route by which you can fulfill the conditions to get the Camino Certificate is the 100KM route from the Galician town of Sarria to Santiago de Compostela. For this reason, many pilgrims choose this town to start their ‘Camino’ pilgrimage and get the certificate of completion of the journey that is issued by the Cathedral of Saint James in Santiago de Compostela.
However, this is not just a modern trend but has its roots in a much older tradition. The Shrine of Saint James, which according to tradition, houses the body and relics of Saint James, one of the twelve apostles, was an important destination of Christian pilgrimage in medieval times and there was a European network of pilgrim routes connecting to it. The Anglo-Irish Archbishop of Dublin, Fulk Basset, went on pilgrimage there in 1267.
Medieval Origins of Saint James Parish
The presence of a church dedicated to Saint James would have acted as a focal point for pilgrims who were sailing from Dublin to La Coruna in northern Spain. The first church of Saint James was built in this area at the end of the 12th century at the site now occupied by the Pearse Lyons Distillery, where there is also a 12th century graveyard. The present building of the Pearse Lyons Distillery dates from 1860 and was a Church of Ireland parish church until it closed in 1963. Today it t incorporates a stained glass window representing the Santiago pilgrimage.
There was also the presence of the nearby Holy Well of Saint James, which was probably somewhere between the modern Fountain obelisk in James Street and Watling Street and the nearby Saint James Gate, a city gate outside Dublin’s main walls, which controlled access to the city on the western route from Galway. The Fair of Saint James was held in this area on the feast of Saint James on the 25th of July every year.
Saint James Gate
Named after Medieval Parish of Saint James, Saint James Gate is believed to have been in use from the 13th century. It once stood close to junction of James Street and Watling Street where the Guinness Brewery’s iconic James’ Gate entrance now stands. It served to protect access to the city from the west into Dublin and was closed at night. It was demolished in the 1730’s.
Saint James Gate would have been the traditional starting point of pilgrims embarking on ‘the Camino’ from Dublin. However, it would also have been the starting point of a mini pilgrimage through the city past Dublin’s most important religious landmarks, which included Saint Catherine’s parish church, founded in the late 12th century, Saint Audoen’s Church, founded in 1190 and Christ Church Cathedral, built by Strongbow in the late 12th century.
This route from James Street though Thomas Street, Corn Market, High Street, Lord Edward Street and Dame Street runs roughly parallel to the River Liffey to what was once a natural harbor which lay close to where Pearse Street Garda station is today.
This harbor was the departure point for pilgrims embarking on ships destined for La Coruna in northern Spain and was once marked by a Viking standing stone (a steinn) and the area was known as ‘The Steine’. A modern replica of the Viking standing stone marks the spot today. Departing Pilgrims sailed either directly from Ireland or via England to northern Spain from here.
The Camino and the Scallop Shell
The scallop shell is the emblem or symbol of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage partly because Christians believe that Saint James had been a fisherman on the Sea of Galilee before becoming one of Jesus’ disciples. There is also a legend which tells of how when the body of Saint James was being brought to Spain after his martyrdom in Jerusalem in 44AD, a horse and a rider at the shore fell into the sea but emerged unscathed covered in scallop shells as the ship carrying the body of Saint approached.
Reasons why medieval Irish Christians went on pilgrimage included expressions of religious fervor and as penance prescribed by the Church and scallop shells may have been brought back as proof and mementos of completing the journey. There are also many scallops on the shores of Galicia in Spain and they were used as food dishes by pilgrims and as vessels by priests to baptize infants in the rite of baptism.
The scallop shell emblem appears in various places along the route from the parish of Saint James to the natural harbor where the pilgrims embarked on their voyage to Spain. Scallop shells which are believed to be mementos of ‘the Camino’ have been found in medieval burials in the graveyard behind the Pearse Lyons Distillery and in Saint Catherine’s Church graveyard in Thomas Street.
The late 12th century baptismal font in Saint Audoen’s Church has scallop shells carved into its four sides and later sculptures such as the 1790 Fountain obelisk just opposite the Pearse Lyons Distillery in James Street, has a bronze scallop shell designed into its tap and a large scallop shell is incorporated into the 19th century fountain on Lord Edward Street just opposite the entrance to Exchange Street Upper.
If you are interested in walking or cycling the Camino route, you can view the Camino Information Office website at: Info Centre | caminosociety
